Vinitaly 2015 — Discovering the pleasure of red bubbles
Vinitaly 2015 has just closed the doors, leaving behind a record edition that went beyond all expectations.
The 49th edition of the mother of all Italian wine expositions put the crown on Lambrusco, just like the other top Italian wines awarded as usual. It’s not only about a point of view of numbers, a consistent increase in fact concerns export data and consumption of Lambrusco every year. But especially in terms of desire to discover this unique world: who produces Lambrusco and how he makes it.
On the floor of Vinitaly, the dimensions of the stand of the Emilia Romagna region, the only one with a restaurant, have surely attracted experts and not. Walking through the stand, it’s possible to follow a virtual path along the Via Emilia (the old Roman route that goes through this region for over 2000 years), a virtual route that encompasses real tastes and wines of the whole region.
The King of this realm is Lambrusco and its best expression is definitely represented by Chiarli winery, that continues to impress everybody with its ruby gold every year.
At Vinitaly 2015, Chiarli presented Quinto Passo, Rosè Brut. This Classical Method of Sorbara single-variety has pale salmon color and clean aroma like the air of high mountain — it’s fresh and floral with good minerality. An experience that suggests a new concept of making Lambrusco through a product more and more elegant and chic. Quinto Passo represents the business path that today celebrates the fifth generation of the winery. Chiarli is the successful completion of a story of wine enterprise began in 1860 when, in the year of the Italian Unification, the founder Cleto Chiarli began the production of Lambrusco.
In 1850, Cleto Chiarli moved from the countryside to the town of Modena and opened up the “Osteria del’Artigliere”. In 1860, he decided to close the Osteria in order to dedicate himself only to the Lambrusco production. During those years, Chiarli realized the importance of selling bottled wine, so he developed the basic techniques needed to produce this unique product, which has the peculiarity of becoming a sparkling wine only inside the bottle, thanks to a natural process of re-fermentation.
The tradition of producing wine in Modena has always been linked with Lambrusco. Lambrusco is a large ancient family of autochthon vines, one of the first produced within Europe. Among the many clones grown during the past, Sorbara and Grasparossa were selected to become the leading grapes, thanks to their peculiar characteristics. Their distinctive traits, combined to care, passion and perseverance let them obtain the DOC recognition in 1970.
Every variety grape has its own territory where diversity of climate, grape and method completely reveal the wines individual characteristics. The Sorbara, fresh and delicate, has a light ruby color, intense flavors and delicate sensations of violet and currant. The Grasparossa has a deep ruby color with purple shades, a fresh fruit bouquet and good body.
Today we can enjoy two great expressions of Lambrusco di Sorbara in single grape variety. Vecchia Modena Premium is fermented in cuve close with the use of only natural sugar of the grape. Lambrusco del Fondatore, produced for more than 150 years through the ancestral method and without using the disgorgement process, shows a residue of yeasts on the bottom barely noticeable, suggesting different experiences in every taste. Vigneto Cialdini, is on the other hand the elegant and meticulous interpretation of Lambrusco Grasparossa, with an intense color and a pronounced body. From Tre Bicchieri of Gambero Rosso to Wine Spectator — these three top products of Chiarli obtained great marks also in 2014.
At Vinitaly, Anselmo Chiarli (owner together with his brother Mauro, the fourth generation) showed in person great satisfaction about the awards achieved last year. “It’s six consecutive years by now that our Lambrusco is considered one of the Italian wine excellence by the most prestigious guides, this fact makes us feel very proud and, at the same time, gives us the responsibility to guarantee always high quality products”.
A great quality is however just one part of the task for Mr. Chiarli: “Our greatest undertaking is to build a world around wine where quality, passion, perseverance and reliability are all mix together in a unique and priceless set. 150 years, an instant or an eternity, but with one and only one goal: true wine and reliable quality for everybody”.
The Chiarli family is ready for the new task: to renew the image and increase the value of Lambrusco and the wines of the whole area. “The pride for our land, its fruit and traditions, provides us the energy necessary to progress and improve”.
Some tips to enjoy the new Quinto Passo? It’s perfect to celebrate special occasions. Delicate bubble, elegant color and fresh aroma of Quinto Passo create a unique balance, combined with an entrée of shrimp in a cup of oven baked Parmigiano Reggiano and drops of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena on the top. Cheers!
By Margherita Biagi
Margherita is an expert in traditional Made in Italy production, in particular what concerns the food, wine and motor (Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini) sectors of Emilia Romagna, the region where she was born. She specializes in intercultural business communication with experience in dealing with companies that want to expand activities on the international market, in particular the Chinese market due to her studies of language, culture and economy of China.